Back in June I booked a hotel room in St Marys so that I could be at their Winter Solstice Festival. Sadly I was ill and had to postpone my stay. So I rebooked for Tuesday and set off along the Midland Highway. To be honest, the Midland Highway was sort of the destination. I had driven it many times from Campbell Town to Devonport to catch the ferry but hadn't driven Hobart to Campbell Town for years, and had always wanted to take the turnoff to St Mary's and the East Coast.
It was all a delight. Mangalore had even more heritage houses than I remembered. Kempton feels like a village in its own right.
You can always tell you're getting close to Oatlands by the steel sculptures on the hills.
It's also a town of hedges and topiary.
I was rather taken with this garden design centre.
And gorgeous whimsy.
Next stop Campbell Town for lunch.
delicious Cornish pasty and French vanilla slice
Didn't dally because I was 'doing' Campbell Town on the way back. And so to the Esk Highway. This is a really beautiful drive. Dabs of wattle yellow, then ribbons of what I'm pretty sure are Blackwoods in flower along the roadside, river and railway track.
proof that Wheatbelt Victoria is not the only place with painted silos
Although this is actually a water tower...
The town of Avoca looked architecturally interesting but Fingal seemed post-apocalyptic. The countryside continued brilliant green and increasingly dotted with black cattle.
small church on approach to St Marys
lovely leadlight in St Marys Hotel
cute little room
I arrived at about 3pm in pouring rain and wondered what to do with myself. I had seen a sign to Cornwell and a Miners' Memorial Wall so drove back to take a look.
The Wall is not a thing of beauty but the lists of miners' names and the history are well done. I thought about my Dad going underground for coal in the Rhondda in Wales from the age of 14 to 19 years. And also the sad lives of the pit ponies there. The Tasmanian Cornwell ponies seem to have had a much better life.
Adjacent to the Miners' Memorial is a memorial park and garden dedicated to local soldiers in the First World War. I followed the perimeter path, each plant in memory of a soldier. About halfway around is this poem (I think, with a spelling mistake) which tells of a real love for this place. Cornwall did remind me of the Rhondda - cottages clinging to the hillside - and you can see that it is raining!
I had a good meal at the pub and was delighted to find magazines in the guests' common room so spent a heavenly evening. I got up much earlier than planned the next morning and took a stroll along St Marys rivulet on the Wombat Walk. Then I drove the Elephant Pass Road to Chain of Lagoons on the East Coast. I was concerned that, driving East in the early morning, the sun would be in my eyes but the tall trees made dappled light and red-breasted wrens and fairy wrens danced before me. From Chain of Lagoons it was North on the Tasman Highway to the St Marys turnoff just before Falmouth. Pranksters have had fun with the road signs: Long Vehicles Sound Horny; You are now entering St Marys ass. Oh dear.
Back in St Marys before 10am, I waited for the shops to open. I chose to breakfast at The Purple Possum. This is a magnificent shop, stocking the raw foods that I love, Turkish Delight and an eclectic mix of clothes, homewares and souvenirs. I bought a veggie scrubbing brush and a teatowel as well as edibles. The owner has run the shop for 28 years and does all the buying herself, guided by what she loves. Bellerive Village would be perfection with such a shop.
Homeward bound, yesterday's sheep seemed to have lambed overnight and the paddocks played host to little gangs of gangly, scheming lambs. Stopped in a cold and windy Campbell Town for a much anticipated 'good look around'. But it was very disappointing. Lake Leather had beautiful shoes and bags as always, but there were scant other interesting shops, with many galleries closed permanently. Oatlands definitely has the edge at the moment.
view from the bridge - Red Bridge at Campbell Town
Home to Bellerive, then take Sarah home to South Hobart where she and Jilly Pup said lingering goodbyes. Sarah and Jill have a deep bond, which is very handy if I need a dog sitter! I was very pleased with my road trip and realised that I am very much a small country town woman - St Marys teemed with grey haired women wearing boots and baggy jeans just like me. But how I love being back in Bellerive.
Why Maggie Cool?
I think I look pretty cool in my driving glasses.
[However I felt pretty stupid when I started Wordle and Connections after taking the photo and realised, after a while, that I hadn't gone blind overnight. I was still wearing the distance driving glasses not my reading glasses...]